Adventure Jones Blog

Use a trucker's hitch knot to tie down the bow and stern.

Unless you want to see your canoe or kayak fly off your roof and down the highway, you’d better learn to tie it down tight.

One trick to remember is to double everything: 2 belly straps, 2 tie down points for the bow end, and 2 tie down points for the stern end. The kayak or canoe should be strapped down tight to the roof rack and vehicle.

Another trick is the trucker’s hitch knot. It holds a load well, tightens under pressure (bumps in the road, etc.), and easily unties no matter how tight it gets. It’s one of the best ways to secure the bow and stern tie downs for your kayak or canoe.

Learning how to tie a trucker’s hitch is a bit more complicated than tying your shoelace, but we’ve got a video from Expert Village to show you how:

Strap your kayak down tight to keep it securely on your vehicle.

Loading up a kayak or canoe? Give yourself peace of mind by making sure it’s securely attached to the roof rack and won’t shift as you drive. Here are some tips for strapping down a kayak. These instructions also work for strapping down a canoe.

1. Load the kayak onto your roof, using foam pads or a roof rack carrier.

2. Adjust the kayak so that it’s perfectly parallel with the car. The bow should be pointing straight forward to reduce wind resistance while driving.

3. Strap the kayak down. Use at least 2 straps to secure the kayak to the roof (not counting the bow and stern tie-downs).

The type of rack system you use will determine how you strap down the kayak.

For foam blocks on a naked roof, thread the strap through the hole down the center of the block, then throw each end of the strap over the top of the kayak. Open the car doors and connect the ends of the strap inside the car. Tighten the strap. Repeat for the second foam block.

Alternatively, you can secure the foam blocks and kayak together without threading the strap through the car. Then use two more straps to loop underneath the kayak, over the top, and in through the car doors.

If you are using a roof rack system, secure the kayak to the cross bars (one strap for each cross bar).

4. Tighten the straps so that they are snug but not tight enough to collapse or distort the hull. Don’t hang your body weight on the straps to tighten. Just give them a moderate tug to tighten. The kayak should be compressed against the mounting cradles or foam blocks but not distorted out of shape.

5. Test how secure the kayak is by pushing against the side of the bow to see how much it moves back and forth. There should be almost no movement with moderate pressure.

6. Test the front of the kayak by pushing up on the bow. The hull should not lift up from the foam blocks or mounting cradles.

7. Next, secure the bow and stern with ropes. Secure the bow rope to the front bumper and the stern rope to the rear bumper. The rope should form an “A” with the top point of the A at the bow or stern and the bottom two points tied to secure points at either end of the bumper.

8. Secure the loose ends of the straps to keep them from flapping against the car or kayak.

After driving a short distance, stop and check the straps to make sure they are still tight. Adjust the kayak and straps as necessary.

Lounging on the water is a great way to spend a lazy afternoon.

Sun’s out. Your schedule’s free. What to do with a lazy afternoon? We’ve got a few ideas for you.

1) Read a book on a floating lounge. Or grab a few friends for a lounge party out on the water.

2) Take a bike ride. Bring some cash for ice cream.

3) Get out on the lake. Canoe. Paddle. Paddle board. Surf.

4) Take a mini day trip. Throw a dart at a map of the surrounding area within 100 miles, and that’s your destination.

5) Explore. Find a park, nature center, museum, or other place you’ve never been to in your city, and make a day of it.

6) Go water tubing. Or take a kid tubing. Use a larger towable for double the fun.

7) Jump rope. Skip rocks. Play hopscotch. Remember what it’s like to be a kid again.

8) Take a picnic. Pack a lunch, a blanket, and your swimming trunks.

A bike repair stand makes it easy to repair your bike when needed.

Spring is here, and bikers are out in full force. Before you hit the road, the League of American Bicyclists recommends taking a minute to inspect your bike and make sure everything is working properly.

With a handy acronym, it’s easy to remember the ABC Quick Check every time you ride your bike.

A = Air

• Check your tires to see if they’re properly inflated.
• Use a pressure gauge to check the pressure (rated pressure should be listed on the tire sidewall).
• While you’re at it, check the tread and sidewall for damage.

B = Brakes

• Always test the brakes before you ride.
• Inspect the brake pads. If there’s less than 1/4 inch left, replace them.
• Make sure the pads don’t rub the tire or spokes.
• Apply the brakes and make sure there is at least 1 inch between the bar and lever.

C = Cranks, Chain, and Cassette

• The crank bolts should be tight. Apply lube to the threads only, if needed.
• Inspect the chain for wear. Twelve links should equal no more than 12 1/8 inches in length.
• Make sure the chain doesn’t skip on the cassette. If it does, repair or replace it.

Quick = Quick Release

• Make sure the hubs are tight to the frame and the quick release is properly engaged.
• Inspect all quick releases (including brakes) on the bike to make sure they are engaged.

Check = Check It Over

• Take a short ride down the driveway or down the block to make sure everything works like it should. Apply the brakes and make sure the gears shift properly.
• Check the bike over for loose or broken parts. If anything needs fixing, fix it before you ride.
• At the beginning of your bike ride, pay attention to any unusual noises or handling. Stop and inspect if anything seems out of the ordinary.

Steel load bars can be cut down to size if needed.

Once you’ve got your roof rack base squared away, it’s time to add load bars—the backbone of your rack system. Round bars, square bars, and aerodynamic bars let you attach bike carriers, boat cradles, and other accessories for your outdoor gear.

The tips below will help you choose the right load bar length for your vehicle.

1. Can you cut the load bars down to size if needed? Yes. Steel load bars can be cut to size, so if the length you need is in between sizes, get the larger size and cut it to the length you need. Just remember: “Measure twice; cut once.” You don’t want to end up with load bars that are too short.

2. The Fit Wizard for Thule and Yakima provide a recommended load bar length for your vehicle. Measure the distance across the roof of your vehicle to get a visual, practical sense of how long the load bars will be. Not long enough? Get the next size up and cut them down to size if needed.

3. Multiple boats, bikes, skis, and combination loads may require longer load bars.

4. Cargo boxes and single carriers work fine with the standard bar length. Just keep the future in mind—if you’re thinking about carrying a wider load eventually, you may want to invest in longer load bars now.

5. Legally, the load bars should not extend beyond your side mirrors.

6. For Thule Rapid Aero bars, you’ll need to stick with the recommended bar length for your vehicle. Longer bars won’t fit, since the channel running underneath the bar will be too short to allow you to attach the towers. If you need a longer load bar, you’ll need to choose the standard load bars instead of Rapid Aero bars.

Roof cargo bags give you more leg room on road trips.

Road trips are fun.

Road trips surrounded by coolers, suitcases, empty pop cans, and your annoying little sister? Not so fun.

Good news: there is a solution to your problem. Mounting a cargo box on your roof or rear hitch can give you more storage space and more leg room. (Unfortunately, you’ll still have to deal with the annoying little sister—sorry we can’t help you there).

Rooftop Cargo

Cargo boxes are split up into two categories: hard and soft.

Hard cargo boxes offer durable protection and security. You can lock them up and leave them on your vehicle at rest stops, diners, and hotels. They also keep their shape, so there’s no need to pack the box full when you drive with the cargo box mounted on your vehicle.

Soft-sided cargo bags are budget-friendly and light enough to easily lift on and off your vehicle’s roof, when empty. It’s best to pack the cargo bag full in order to keep it from flapping in the wind while you’re driving down the highway. Some soft cargo bags are adjustable in size for lighter loads.

Rear Cargo

If you’ve got a trailer hitch on your vehicle, rear cargo carriers are another option. They are easier to access (no reaching overhead) and easier to mount (no lifting overhead). Just keep in mind that they may block rear access to your vehicle.

The simplest and most affordable way to carry your bike is with a trunk-mounted carrier.

Need a way to haul your bike around? The simplest and most affordable way to carry your bike is with a trunk-mounted carrier. Just strap it on your car, secure your bike, and you’re ready to roll.

Trunk bike racks are quick to install and just as easy to remove. They fold for storage, taking up as little space as possible in your garage or closet…a big advantage for apartment dwellers.

3 Questions to Ask Before You Buy a Bike Rack:

1) Does it fit your vehicle?
If you have a spoiler on your car, make sure the rack is compatible with spoilers. Most racks are adjustable to fit most cars or hatchbacks, but it’s still important to do your research up front to save yourself the hassle of an exchange or return.

2) Does it fit your bike?
If you have an odd-shaped frame or a bicycle that is smaller or larger than average, you might need a special rack.

3) How many bikes do you need to haul?
Get a bike rack that fits the most bikes you expect to haul. Sometimes a larger capacity rack is better. A 3-bike mount makes it easier to fit 2 bikes, since you can space them out further. It also reduces the chance of scratching the frames or your vehicle.

Installation

To install a trunk bike rack, just rest the padded rack on the back of your car, hook the straps onto the trunk or hatchback, and tighten the straps.

The foam blocks protect your vehicle roof from scratches or damage.

Unless you’re super strong and not worried about scratching your car, we recommend recruiting a buddy to help you load your canoe on your vehicle. Sure, it can be done solo, but it’s a whole lot easier with a little help.

Attach Foam Blocks

If you are using a foam block canoe carrier, attach the four foam blocks to the gunnels (two on each side) before loading the canoe. Place them at an even distance from the center yoke.

Lift the Canoe

Working with your partner, lift the canoe overhead and carry it to the side of the vehicle. Flip the canoe upside down together as you lift the canoe onto the roof of the vehicle and gently set it down. Only the foam blocks should be touching the roof of your vehicle.

Center the Canoe

Make sure the canoe is centered on the vehicle. On most vehicles, the yoke should be just behind the front doors. If you have a canoe rack, make sure the canoe is centered on the rack.

Secure the Center Strap

Secure the canoe to the vehicle using a center strap and Y straps on each end. The center strap goes over the belly of the canoe at the center point and through the car doors on either side. Tighten the strap and secure the loose end to keep it from flapping in the wind. Closing the car doors will keep the strap securely in place.

Secure the Ends

Next, secure the canoe at each end by connecting the strap to the canoe in front or back and securing the ends of the strap to your vehicle in a Y-shaped pattern. Choose secure tie down points on your vehicle. Tie off any loose ends.

Check Straps Again

Double check all straps for tightness before driving. After driving at highway speeds for a few miles, stop and check the straps again for tightness. Adjust as needed.

Video Demonstration

For visual learners, see the video below by Algonquin Outfitters:

Riding bike on the road requires staying alert to what's around you.

Spring is here, and the bikes are out on the road in full force. The rules of the road might differ from state to state, but there are a few general and common sense tips that apply to almost any situation. Here are a few of those tips on keeping the peace between bikers and drivers.

Tips for Drivers:

• Watch for bikers on the road, at intersections, and at crosswalks. Check your blind spot before turning right, and don’t cut bikers off at the turn. They are often moving faster than you expect.
• Give bikers a wide berth when passing. If it’s not safe to pass, don’t. Wait until the time is right.

Tips for Bikers:

• Don’t ride in a way that expects drivers to see you. Be especially alert at intersections and when passing parked cars, where someone could open their door in front of you as you approach.
• Avoid riding on busy streets when possible. It clogs up traffic and puts you at higher risk for accidents. Choose roads with lower speed limits, neighborhood streets, and dedicated bike paths whenever possible.
• Stay visible. Especially at night. Always use a strong headlight and/or headlamp at dusk or in the dark. Get a flashing red light for the back of your bike. Brightly colored, reflective clothing is another good idea—both at night and during the day.
• Signal your turns. Let drivers and other bikers around you know your intentions well ahead of your actions. Don’t take motorists by surprise.
• Let’s face it—at some point in time, a driver will take a sudden turn without signaling, cut you off at an intersection, or honk when they think you’re in the way. Just take a deep breath, keep doing what you know you should do, and let it go.
• If you’re like most of us, you drive and bike both. The benefit is that you understand what it’s like on both sides. So when you’re a driver, be considerate and aware of those on bikes. And when you’re a biker, do the same for cars around you.

Friends sledding

I can’t remember the last time I went sledding. But a few days after the latest snowfall hit in Minnesota (and just about the only significant snowfall this winter), my friends and I decided it was time to drag out the sleds.

Sledding is fun. Sledding in the dark…even more fun. There’s no telling when you’re going to sail off a ramp some kid built up during the day. Especially when you’re going backwards.

I’d forgotten how you can feel everything under the sled when the snow is packed down. Every bump, dip, and mitten that you run over feels rock-hard.

Although I can’t recommend sledding in the dark (something along the lines of “don’t do this at home”), we did come out in one piece…no broken bones, no bruised tailbones, and no trips to the emergency room.

Time to put away the sleds again until next time the kid in me wants to come out and play.